🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.